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In-wall and
in-ceiling speakers are getting popular into thousands of homes, They
have been used for decades in commercial applications, in recent years
manufacturers spend a lot of resource in R&D and have developed models
which can accurately reproduce music and soundtracks at home. They're good
enough for people (husband) who want really enjoyable audio, and discreet
enough for folks (wife) who want to enjoy music without having to see
their speakers.
Flush-mount In-wall
and In-ceiling speakers can be painted to match room d้cor, and their
in-wall wiring is completely hidden from view. They also deliver better
bass than conventional speakers of the same size by utilizing the wall or
ceiling cavity as the speaker cabinet. They also have swiveling tweeters
that let you direct the high frequencies toward your ears. Because they
are moisture-resistant they can be safely installed in bathrooms, laundry
rooms, and other moist areas (avoid installing them directly above a bath
or shower stall).
How they work: the basics of in wall and in
ceiling speakers?
A - An in-wall speaker works essentially the same way as a
regular box cabinet speaker. Instead of being inside a cabinet (box), it is
mounted in a frame and set into the wall. It actually uses the wall cavity
as a large cabinet, giving you more bass than you might get from a
stand-alone speaker of the same size.
An in-ceiling speaker works essentially the same way, By placing in a
ceiling. (For the most part, in-wall speakers tend to be rectangular, and
in-ceiling speakers tend to be round.) All in-wall and in-ceiling speakers
have paintable grilles, so you can really camouflage them in your walls or
ceiling!
What kind of
speakers should I use for different rooms? A
- Different kinds of rooms tend to be used for different kinds of
listening. For example, in a family room you might sit in a specific place
to hear music or home theater sound at higher volumes. In that case, the
biggest, best-sounding in-wall speakers you can afford, positioned at ear
level when seated, are going to be your best bet.
A kitchen or dining room, on the other hand, is a place where you might want
low-key sound distributed evenly throughout the space. An array of
unobtrusive in-ceiling or in-wall speakers is a great choice in that case.
And a small area, like a bathroom or hallway, is often a place where
speakers are just used for background listening. We recommend for
rooms like these using single "stereo"
dual voice coil speaker.
What size of in wall in ceiling speakers should I
choose? A -
In general, to
get the best clean, detailed sound in your room, you need to choose the
best speakers you can afford. Larger speakers often produce louder,
cleaner sound than smaller speakers (especially in lower volume) The
factors you should really be looking at are:
the size of your room, if your room size is less
than 140 sq. ft, choose 5.25" or 6.5" size speakers. If your room is
bigger than 140 sq. ft, choose 6.5" or 8" speakers.
The 8" speakers are
better for large room, high-power, big sound speaker system. High fidelity
components, such as a 1 aluminum cone tweeter and an 8 injection molded
graphite (IMG) woofer, give it a powerful bass response and higher sound
pressure level with increased dynamics. You enjoy more music details in
lower volume. Superb for home theater or main listening room
areas.
The 6 1/2" speakers are high
fidelity speakers designed for medium-size rooms and home theater systems.
With features a 1 silk dome tweeter and polypropylene cone woofer, it
provides excellent mid to high range for you home theatre sounds.
A powered sub-woofer for your theater room
will take care of the low bass sounds. A subwoofer handles frequencies
from 120 hertz and lower (the low boom sounds) . A system upgrade to aluminum
tweeters and IMG woofers will improve clarity and deeper bass
response
5 1/4" speakers provides excellent sound
quality when space is a factor. Great for small bedrooms, dining, kitchen
or patio areas or just about anywhere you want to listen to music at a
moderate level. They are best for
background music application or surround sound of home theater
application. We don't recommend them for serious music listening or main
speaker for home theatre. They are economic and give you good coverage
inside your house.
Also look at the following spec:
- Frequency response.
The range of human hearing is about 20-20,000 Hz. A frequency response
specification tells you what portion of that range a speaker can play. A
speaker with a frequency response of 50-20,000 Hz handles a wider range
and offers deeper bass than a speaker with a frequency response of
65-20,000 Hz.
- Power handling.
A speaker's recommended power specification usually tells you at least
the maximum amplifier power the speaker can handle often minimum power
handling info is included as well. A speaker with recommended power of
20-100 watts is well-suited to an 100-watt RMS receiver.
- Efficiency.
A speaker's efficiency, or sensitivity, rating indicates how effectively
it uses the power sent to it by your amplifier. A speaker with a rating
of 87 dB needs a lot more power to play as loudly as a speaker
with a rating of 91 dB.
Also many in-ceiling and some in-wall speakers come with swiveling
tweeters, so you can angle your sound toward a preferred listening
spot. Some speakers also come with bass and treble tone controls
that you can access simply by popping off the speaker grille!
Where should I use single "stereo" dual
voice coil speaker? A -
When your house is wired for stereo (left and right channel) sound, and
you have locations that can only fit one speaker, you don't have to just
listen one regular (mono) speaker - that only let you hear half of the
music signal. With dual voice coil single stereo speaker, it plays both
the left and right channels of stereo music via one woofer and two angled
tweeters. You get the spaciousness of stereo sound, even in a small place.
These speakers are recommend for use in compact room, like bathroom,
garages or throughout a long narrow space, like hallway.
Do I need
subwoofer?
A - Only if you setup the home theatre. It is a must have for you to
enjoy the home theatre system. Many people who are using in-wall
speakers for home theater simply buy a regular powered subwoofer to
supplement the low frequencies, since bass is omnidirectional and a sub can
be placed discreetly in a room.
Powered Subwoofer is necessary for
reproducing the unique low frequency effects channel recorded in most of
today's movies. It also helps augment the lowest frequencies in every
channel. To find the best match size of your subwoofer for your home
theatre. Always get a powered subwoofer that is 2" or 3 "sizes" larger than
the size of your front speakers.
Why my speaker sound terrible when I test
them? A - A lot of customers
just hook the speakers they receive to their receiver (amp) before ever
mounting them. The speaker will sound like there is no bass at all
and tinny. Because these flush-mount speakers are designed to be
used in the wall. Like any speaker needs an enclosure to make full range
sound. Without the enclosure (in this case your house wall), the speaker
can't produce the sound pressure level. So if you want to try them out,
mount speakers into a box of about 3 cu. ft. or larger to listen or
just go ahead and mount them in the wall and listen.
What kind of gauge wire should I use for my
speakers? A - Like whet we've
discussed in outdoor speaker wiring section, if the runs up to 100 feet
for background music, 16 gauge wire will be fine. Most homes under
2500 square feet would do fine if they are pre-wired with 16 gauge wire.
If it's approaching or exceeding 100 feet, you should use 14 gauge
wire. Some of the higher end equipment available go as far as accepting 10
gauge wire. But don't overkill it. if you are running cable behind a wall or ceiling, you need to use
UL Class 3 rated cable to be in compliance with most building codes. Class
3 cable is likely to degrade in extreme temperatures because it uses an
extra plenim sheath to protect the cable. The letters CL3 should be
printed somewhere on the sheath.
Is rough-in kit necessary for new
construction houses? A - No, Rough-in kits are not necessary and in most
cases are not a good idea. Builders and installers will recommend
inserting rough-in kits prior to the sheetrock being installed. This is
good for them because it locks you into using speakers that fit the kits.
Because once they are installed they cannot be repositioned and the appearance of a room can change so much between
the framing stage and the finished stage, it's more prudent to do your
final speaker placements when the room is completed.
It is always good idea to have a general idea
of where you want your speakers mounted in the framing stage, and to run
the wire out into the desired stud bays on either side of your preferred
location while it's still fully accessible. Run the cable as necessary and simply tack
it to the inside of the stud nearest the point where you plan to install a
speaker. Leave several extra feet of cable and keep a good map of where
everything is placed before the drywall goes up.
What should I do about installation?
A- Installing speakers is reasonably easy, and knowing you
saved money by doing it yourself is very rewarding. It's important to
know ahead of time how you plan to install your in-wall or in-ceiling
speakers.
- New Home
- Wiring takes place pre-drywall, and speaker installation takes place
during drywall rough-in. You should order your speaker cable and
speakers at an early enough stage of construction that they're ready for
installation. You don't want your home construction being put on hold to
wait for you speaker cable.
- Even if you're going to install your speakers yourself, discuss the
installation with the contractor in charge of your construction. It's
important that for them to know your plans and the time frame needed.
You may also want to discuss your wiring plans with your electrician.
For safety reason, you need to use UL Class 3 rated cable to be in compliance with most
building codes. You also need to purchase enough cable to
make all the wire runs needed.
Existing Construction
- Locate the places where you want to have speakers, plan the work
ahead and figure out the work needed to install those speakers and run
wire to them. Using a stud finder and cutting holes in the wall for the
speakers, there's all the cutting and drilling needed to run in-wall
speaker cable. We recommend that you can DIY for one room project like
installing inwall music center with two ceiling or two wall speakers.
For whole house project hire a professional.
- Find out the whether the surfaces where you wish to install speakers
are suitable for that kind of installation? Plaster walls in old houses,
or drywall built right against cement block supports, may cause you
serious installation difficulties. These are things to determine ahead
of time.
What is the best way to setup audio
distribution for my whole house?
Simple- Use a single stereo
amplifier with a speaker selector box with impedance protection turned on.
A speaker selector allows you to connect multiple pairs of speakers to a
single stereo amplifier. Most selector boxes include a switch for turning
impedance protection "on" or "off". When turned "on", your receiver will
never see an unsafe impedance The shortcoming of impedance protection is
that it has the effect of "choking" your power, meaning you won't be able
to get quite the same volume out of your speakers compared to a set-up
that employs impedance matching. This kind of speaker selector is usually
"Resistor" based speaker selectors
Use a single stereo
amplifier with impedance matching volume controls which is
"Autoformer" based allows you to get the most juice out of your amplifier.
It provides a convenient method for connecting your speakers in parallel.
In a carefully planned impedance matching scheme, you will turn the
protection switch off thereby ensuring you get the most from your amp.
Pro- The best and
professional method for powering a whole-house audio system is to use a
dedicated multi-zone amplifier like MX1260 or MX1230. These
multi-use/multi-zone amplifiers allow you to select between multiple audio
sources for each zone and balance the overall volume level going into each
zone. 60 or 30 discreet watts of power is provided to each of 12
channels (6 stereo zones) which is more than enough for this type of
application. And because the amplifiers are discreet, you can connect up
to two 8 ohm speakers into each zone without having to worry about
impedance issues. For even greater flexibility, you can connect even more
speakers to the same channel with the use of impedance matching volume
controls. And if you need more power in some zones than in others,
side-by-side channels can be bridged to create a single 100 watt
channel.
When you setup your home theatre, you can use a line level
auxiliary output (or preamp output) on your home theater receiver to
connect to the line level inputs on a stereo amplifier. In this way,
the sources you have connected to your receiver (such as a DVD player,
satellite receiver, etc.) can also be played throughout your whole-house
audio system. If you use a multi-zone amplifier you can also connect each
source directly into the multi-zone amp so that you can have multiple
sources playing at the same time and you decide which zone hears each
source.
If you are in the market for a new home theater receiver
and want to power an extra one or two pair of speakers throughout your
home, you should consider purchasing a receiver that can handle both.
These receivers will have a minimum of 7 channels of power built-in; 5
channels for home theater, and 2 channels for stereo whole-house audio
(note: some 6.1 receivers provide the option of using the sixth channel to
power a mono whole-house system, but who wants mono instead of stereo?).
Such receivers are usually dual source/dual zone, which means you can play
two sources at the same time and choose which zone (home theater zone or
stereo zone) hears each source. As an example, the home theater zone can
be playing a DVD, while the stereo zone listens to a radio or satellite
broadcast.
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