How to setup Multi-Room Music Distribution System

Setting multi-room whole house audio system is not as difficult as you thought. We highly recommend you design and layout the wires during the construction of your house. If you want to add music system to your current house, it is very easy to consult local audio/video installer or at least you can contract the electrician to run the speaker wire for you. Buy the equipment yourself so you have better control of the quality and price. The following is a general guideline that can help you design the multi-room whose house audio system.

Which rooms do you want music in?
The first step in designing your own multi-room audio system is to take a close look at how you live in each room of your home. Make a list of the rooms where you spend the most time. Then try to classify the type of listening you'll do in each room.

  1. Critical Listening — In which rooms will you (at least occasionally) sit in one spot, facing the speakers, and really concentrate on the music? The family room? The home theater room? In critical listening rooms, you orient the speakers toward the prime listening seats.

     
  2. Entertainment Listening — Think of all the rooms in which you and your family or guests gather to read, talk, work, cook or play. In most of these situations, you play music at low volumes, but you may want to turn it up occasionally. You don't sit in one spot, nor do your guests. The speakers go where they can best spread the stereo sound throughout the room.

     
  3. Background Listening — Classify rooms you just pass through or spend small amounts of time in — such as hallways, bathrooms and the laundry room — as background listening rooms.


What type of speakers should you use?
As you read about the different types of speakers, keep in mind that there's no reason you need to stick with the same speaker design throughout your home. You can select speakers for each room or area individually, to best match the layout, décor, and type of listening you'll be doing there.

Adding a power subwoofer is a great idea to achieve deep bass in rooms where you're installing small flush-mount, bracket-mount, or bookshelf speakers — particularly in areas where you'll be doing critical listening. As part of a multi-room system, a powered subwoofer should have speaker-level inputs. These simplify volume control, since the same wall-mount knob controls the volume of the speakers and the subwoofer.

Speaker placement for critical listening
Place the left and right speakers an equal distance from your prime listening seat, so that the tweeters are at ear level while seated or adjust the tweeter toward to your listening position. If you're installing speakers in a wall that's 10 feet from your chair, place them no more than 10 feet apart from each other and no less than 5 feet apart. If the speakers are placed too close together or too far apart from one another, you will not hear a proper stereo effect.

Sometimes the layout of a room (or the positioning of artwork or furniture within it) makes it impossible to place in-wall, on-wall or floor-standing speakers for critical listening. In such cases, choose a high-grade set of in-ceiling speakers including the LCR critical home theatre design, Ideally, these speakers should have pivoting tweeters, which allow you to direct the relatively unidirectional high frequencies toward your prime listening seats for optimal sound.

Another consideration: When a speaker is placed in a corner, its bass output is reinforced by your room acoustics. You hear more bass, but not necessarily good, tight bass. This so-called "boundary effect" can make the bass sound "loose" or "boomy." Always place your speakers at least one foot away from a corner or a wall/ceiling boundary.

Speaker placement for entertainment listening
In rooms you move around in or frequently entertain in, speaker placement designed for critical listening won't work well. The music will be too loud in one area and too soft in another. By employing three or four speakers in a room, or by judiciously using a combination of direct and reflected sound, you create a sound field that is relatively even. You'll hear some degree of stereo effect regardless of where you are in the room.

Ceiling speakers are a great choice for entertainment listening, because they provide the most even dispersion of sound throughout a room. However, should the wall offer an easier installation or a better match with your décor, place the speakers at least 6 feet off the floor. Both in-wall and in-ceiling speakers should also be placed at least 2 feet away from corners to keep the reflected sound in balance with the direct sound.

When a room is long and narrow, L-shaped, or larger than 300 square feet, consider using more than two speakers. They should be wired in alternating channels, to provide a decent stereo effect in as many areas as possible.

When your décor or budget will not allow more than two speakers in a large or irregular room, try to place left and right stereo speakers near opposite corners of the room. Another option, particularly suitable for long, narrow rooms, is to place two dual voice coil single stereo ceiling speakers in the middle of the room's opposite ends. Each stereo-input speaker plays both the left and right channels of stereo music via one woofer and two angled tweeters, conveying some of the spaciousness of true stereo sound.

 

ceiling speaker placement


Ceiling speaker placement:
  1. Diagonal placement, gives good coverage in a typical rectangular room of 300 square feet or less.
  2. Use of three or more speakers in a large or L-shaped room.
  3. In a narrow room, place the speakers in the middle at either end. In this example, stereo-input speakers would be a good choice.

Speaker placement for outdoor entertainment listening
To bring music to your patio or deck, a wide range of weather-resistant speakers are available. Because the sound from such speakers is not bottled up like it is indoors, more power is needed to adequately fill an outdoor space with music. Placing speakers way out in the yard, and expecting them to blanket an acre with sound, is asking too much from a typical receiver or amplifier.

Try to place outdoor speakers within 15 feet of the listening area. The practical way to cover your patio or deck is from the side of the house. The speakers can be tucked into the eaves, which puts the sound behind you as you face the yard.

Speaker placement for background listening
Are you tired of having to crank up your sound system to ear-splitting levels in your main listening room just so you can hear your music while you're in the laundry or the bathroom? Background speakers make your entire house play music for you, and at appropriate volume levels for each listening area.

Typically, the most effective way to bring background music to small rooms is to utilize dual voice coil single stereo in-ceiling speaker. In a bathroom, laundry room or dressing room, a single stereo-input speaker can provide good background sound inexpensively and effectively from the center of the room. In large rooms, the more speakers you use, the more pervasive the soundfield will be. Since the volume will never be high in your background-listening areas, you don't have to worry about the negative effects of too much reflected sound.

By creatively placing speakers to reflect their sound off of furniture, walls and ceilings, you can provide pervasive sound without any visible speakers. For example, you might try placing a set of bookshelf speakers out of sight on top of your kitchen cabinets, pointed at the ceiling. The sound reflects off the ceiling, and down into the kitchen, providing good background music coverage throughout the room.

Powering your speakers
After you've decided which rooms you'd like to put speakers in, and what type(s) of speakers you'll be using, the next decision you'll need to make is how to power them all.

While in-wall and in-ceiling speakers have been used for decades in commercial applications, in recent years a handful of manufacturers have developed models which can accurately reproduce music and soundtracks at home.

In-wall and in-ceiling speakers work in the same way as regular speakers, but they are mounted in a frame and set into the wall (or ceiling). Instead of a separate speaker cabinet, they use the wall itself as the cabinet. (Though most in-wall speakers are full-range, you may want to add a powered subwoofer to your system for bass reinforcement, especially for home theater.)

With proper installation, these speakers sound great and can blend seamlessly into your room's decor (they even have paintable grilles!). Plus, you don't fill up your floor space with speakers. But keep in mind, installation is more involved than setting up traditional speakers. And you will, of course, need to run your speaker wires behind the walls


Start with is an existing Stereo System. If it has at least 50 watts per channel of output power, and provisions for 2 pair or more of speakers (outputs on the back for "A" and "B" speakers) it should be suitable as the heart of an entire residential or small scale business music system.

Speaker cabinets already exist everywhere in your building. Of course, you have probably been thinking of them as Walls and Ceilings, but due to the nature of their construction, they are ideal speaker cabinets. A typical 8 foot tall wall with 16" stud centers has nearly 3 cubic feet of interior space. That is equivalent to a speaker cabinet 1 foot wide, 1 foot deep and 3 feet tall. You know speakers need cabinets to develop bass response, that is why speakers in big cabinets are capable of great bass.

When you buy and install In-Wall Mounted speaker systems you are only paying for the Woofers, Tweeter & Frames, it's the cabinets that make up the bulk of the expense, not only in materials and labor to construct the enclosures but in the excess packing materials, added freight, handling and warehousing (space) expenses that large - heavy items dictate.

The walls & ceilings which make up the building serve as terrific speaker enclosures, at no additional expense and furthermore allow you to place the sound sources unobtrusively almost anywhere you wish.

Step 1

Determine which rooms or areas you wish to provide sound, keeping any outdoor areas in mind. This will determine whether you select a 4, 6, or pair speaker selector 

Visualize where the furniture and fixtures will be placed in order to identify optimum speaker and decorator jack plate locations. Generally, in areas where there isn't a centralized seating or listening/viewing position, ceiling speakers are best.

If there is a defined listening/viewing position such as a sofa, the speakers should be wall mounted facing the defined listening/viewing position. In Home Theater applications you can incorporate 4, 6, even as many as 8 speakers for ultimate surround sound systems.

Step 2

Decide in which room the Stereo System (Receiver/Amp, CD, Cassette, etc.), will be located. This will be the Home Run location to which all of the remote speaker wiring will be run. 
 

In the wall area here (behind the stereo equipment), you can optionally mount the Banana Jack Plates or Binding Post Plates. These terminate the wiring from the in wall/ceiling speakers to one main location.

Step 3

In each room determine where to position the volume control . It is necessary to install one volume control for each pair of speakers. The maximum volume for the entire building will be set from your centralized receiver/amplifier. Each room's relative volume level is controlled by its own localized volume control. 
 

Step 4

While doing your wire runs, remember, to meet Building Codes in most municipalities, you must use CLASS 2 or CLASS 3 rated Plenum wire. While there are many types of wire that are of a heavy enough gauge to carry the audio signal, if they are not CLASS 2 or CLASS 3 Rated they will likely not be approved in the electrical inspection process.

The common practice is to run 4 conductor wire from the location of the speaker switcher to each volume control. Then, from each volume control to each of the two associated speakers, a 2 conductor wire should be run. Each speaker requires a "+" and a "-" wire. Use at least 16 gauge wire, and if the "runs" exceed 100 feet, use 14 gauge wire. Wire of 18 or smaller gauge can cause overheating of your amplifier or in extreme conditions may even damage the amplifier. 
 

Simple- Use a single stereo amplifier with a speaker selector box with impedance protection turned on. A speaker selector allows you to connect multiple pairs of speakers to a single stereo amplifier. Most selector boxes include a switch for turning impedance protection "on" or "off". When turned "on", your receiver will never see an unsafe impedance The shortcoming of impedance protection is that it has the effect of "choking" your power, meaning you won't be able to get quite the same volume out of your speakers compared to a set-up that employs impedance matching. This kind of speaker selector is usually "Resistor" based speaker selectors

Use a single stereo amplifier with impedance matching volume controls  which is "Autoformer" based allows you to get the most juice out of your amplifier without overloading your amp. It provides a convenient method for connecting your speakers in parallel. In a carefully planned impedance matching scheme, you will turn the protection switch off thereby ensuring you get the most from your amp.

Pro- The best and professional method for powering a whole-house audio system is to use a dedicated multi-zone amplifier  like MX1260 or MX1230.  These multi-use/multi-zone amplifiers allow you to select between multiple audio sources for each zone and balance the overall volume level going into each zone. 60 or 30  discreet watts of power is provided to each of 12 channels (6 stereo zones) which is more than enough for this type of application. And because the amplifiers are discreet, you can connect up to two 8 ohm speakers into each zone without having to worry about impedance issues. For even greater flexibility, you can connect even more speakers to the same channel with the use of impedance matching volume controls. And if you need more power in some zones than in others, side-by-side channels can be bridged to create a single 100 watt channel.

When you setup your home theatre, you can use a line level auxiliary output (or preamp output) on your home theater receiver to connect to the line level inputs on a stereo amplifier. In this way,  the sources you have connected to your receiver (such as a DVD player, satellite receiver, etc.) can also be played throughout your whole-house audio system. If you use a multi-zone amplifier you can also connect each source directly into the multi-zone amp so that you can have multiple sources playing at the same time and you decide which zone hears each source.

If you are in the market for a new home theater receiver and want to power an extra one or two pair of speakers throughout your home, you should consider purchasing a receiver that can handle both. These receivers will have a minimum of 7 channels of power built-in; 5 channels for home theater, and 2 channels for stereo whole-house audio (note: some 6.1 receivers provide the option of using the sixth channel to power a mono whole-house system, but who wants mono instead of stereo?). Such receivers are usually dual source/dual zone, which means you can play two sources at the same time and choose which zone (home theater zone or stereo zone) hears each source. As an example, the home theater zone can be playing a DVD, while the stereo zone listens to a radio or satellite broadcast.


 

 

     

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